As we encounter new ideas and techniques we will add them here.

(Also, we will have the things we forgot to put elsewhere!)


Contaminated Breaks - Older breaks that have had rain water seep inside and then evaporate out, leaving contaminants behind, will have less clarity (and weaker bonds) than those that are fresh.  Be sure and educate your customers on this before starting.  This will also educate them for the future and get them to you quicker for the next repair.  You can also recommend they cover the break with a bit of clear tape, if they can't make it to you before a rain.  


Resin Viscosity and Curing Time - Remember that every break is different.  You will be using different Resins for different purposes.  Pit Filler on the surface will cure much quicker in comparison to a large amount of Crack Filler in the break.  This is not a huge concern.  Just remember to give a little extra time to allow the resin below the surface to cure if it is a large break.  Just because the pit is cured does not mean the inside is cured.  This will avoid "corona effects" from uncured resin oozing between the PVB layer and glass, as well as other problems.  Furthermore, the thinner the Resin, the greater chance of shrinkage when curing.  Many people ask, "Why not just use the thinnest Resin all the time?"  Well, if the break has large chambers, rather than thin "legs", our Quick Cure resin will penetrate the break just fine and will shrink less upon curing (hence "quick" compared to our crack filler).  The slower you cure a resin, the less shrinkage occurs.  It is for this reason that we provide low wattage UV lights with our kits.  Yes, higher wattage lights will cure resin faster, but, as we have just stated, quality, not speed, is the ultimate goal.


Tapping Around the Break - During the Vacuum Process air is being removed from the break.  When bubbles form, some stubborn ones tend to stick inside the break.  Gently knocking with a knuckle on the inside of the vehicle can help break these free an allow them to escape.


Flexing the Break - Unlike other systems, our System allows the technician to monitor the progress from inside the vehicle during the Repair Process.  During this time, it is possible to apply light pressure to a problem area or "leg" where air is not escaping or Resin is not flowing.  From the inside of the vehicle, simply use your thumb to push gently on the area to flex the crack open and allow material to flow.  Working the break in this way can allow maximum penetration to an otherwise closed area.  This is an Advanced Technique!  Caution and finesse must be used to keep from running the crack by applying too much pressure.


Angled Drilling - Not every break needs to be drilled.  We address this subject in "Priming the Break."  Furthermore, those that do only need a minimum amount to allow Resin to flow.  For very stubborn breaks with several "legs", rather than drilling straight down into the pit, a slight angle towards the problem "leg" will help open a capillary straight to it and allow you to get it filled.